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January 2018

The Mallory and Irvine Road passes or climbs the Everest Steps.

By Route pass No Comments

Hope you understood that we are wondering whether or not George and Sandy would have attempted Everest via the normal route until what is now called the second stage as climbers do today. Why are we questioning this? Let’s start with a question from the reader from Holland.

Everest 2nd Step: panoramic photo

Copyright Park Jong Cheol

Drive letter: The rope, and why should Irvine wait. In 1999, Conrad Anker climbed the second step to prove that Mallory could have done it. He climbed without his backpack and put it back up later. Mallory could have done the same with his oxygen carrier. Maybe that’s why he needed part of the rope. (Does the length match?) While the reader tries to argue for taking the rope, the reader
hypothesized that Mallory attempted Everest on the same route by the second stage as Conrad did. This hypothesis is a theme that is written by many almost as a fact.
We don’t agree with the hypothesis that Mallory attempted Everest the normal way. We see other options, more likely options in our opinion.

Let’s share with you what a few veteran mountaineers have shared with us recently about our theory of the ridge rather than the normal route today.

Let’s start with Nikolay Petkov, double summit of Everest: first on May 9, 1984 via West Ridge,
then by the normal route on the north side this year.

“Here is my comment on a

“Drive letter”

>>> If, as you can imagine, Mallory followed the ridge, then he ends up on top of the snowfield below the summit. These days climbers cross to the right and then make their way to the final summit. Is approaching the ridge line difficult? Could Mallory have climbed it?

I climbed Everest West Ridge in 1984 – Bulgarian Everest Expedition, then returned via the South Pass, making the first real summit crossing of Everest.

Before going down to the Nepal site, with my partner Kiril Doskov [and I] we made a mistake and went down to the Chinese site, today’s normal route from the north. We realized our mistake just above the 3rd step, and returned to the top then descended on the site of Nepal towards the south pass.

On May 20 of this year I climbed Everest again and I’m sure in 1984 we climbed the ridge directly above the snowfield and the difficulties are moderate. I wondered that now, one day, the road was fine, then passed some not easy rocks and needed a rope there.

I’m sure Mallory (if I’ve been to this location) followed the ridge above the snowfield below the summit, and in my own experience the difficulties are moderate, no problem for experienced climbers , without the need for a rope. ”

[Note his emphasis added in bold here.]

Best regards, Nikolay Petkov

we asked
Nikolay if he can draw the route on a picture so that we can all see it. It was very foggy that year, so we’ll have to see if he has a good photo …

Second, let’s look at the master’s comments on the north side of Everest: Gheorghe Dijmarescu, who climbed the north slope of Everest by the normal route now 6 times in 6 years, once without oxygen.

“The route we take (shortly after the first leg) is something that I have wondered several times as it does not seem like a natural inviting route and yes for someone who has come to this place for the first times it would be a natural invitation to take the ridge, unless the ridge turns out to be too large for an ascent, especially at this time.

I really have I don’t think M&I had time to research a route and to find the modern road one would have to have a stupid chance. After the mushroom rock we go to the face of the mountain (start of the ridge) on what I call the most dangerous part of the climb (until the second step) we go up (slight difference in height) clipped on the rope frail (5 mm) on frozen slabs, sometimes descending, its a scary place, going without a rope especially 70 years ago should have been almost suicidal and if they found this place they would definitely prefer the ridge (which was the preferred style at the time), Mallory was a ridge climber.

This transverse is the place where few mountaineers have fallen to death. It is a very dangerous place. And maybe that’s proof that Mallory took the ridge. Fascinating, isn’t it. ”

Sincerely, George D.

It should be noted that we could be completely wrong about this, but we are questioning conventional thinking!

What these experienced Everest northerners confirm is that it would be much more natural to stay on the crest of the NE Ridge, and climb the second step from there, than to make the dangerous crossing opposite. (after the first step) only to have to climb the approach to the second step from 90 feet below, then unsportsmanlike use of the Chinese ladder. It seems to us that once the inexperienced Chinese climbers of 1960 chose their route?
Mallory maybe spotted early on.

We believe the Norton route would also be a more likely route than the “second stop” as defined today, however, if George and Sandy were to take the Norton, why would Sandy be back on the road, at Unless he just turned around and George continues going … Food for thought.

Note also that English is not the first language for either of these men; but we have left their comments in their writings so that you may have the opportunity to interpret their thoughts without editorial editing, in the tradition of


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